Kokoro

Yesterday I went to Arashiyama for the last day of the 2006 Kyoto Music Festival. The 20 minute tram ride from Shijo-Omiya took us straight to the western most subdivision of Kyoto. Praised for its accessible nature walks, its numerous Shinto and Buddhist shrines, and the beautiful Katsura river, Arashiyama was a wonderful surprise. Immediately after exiting the tram, my friend and I ran right into a Japanese a capella group performing their rendition of a "Rent" tune. Although captivating, we decided to side-step them and instead climb the steep slopes of, what is known as, Sarukouen, which means Monkey Park. Indeed, there are over 170 running, jumping, screaming, Japanese monkeys living in the park (above).

After spending some time with the monkeys, we climbed down, deciding to see the mainstage. There, next to the tacoyaki and ikayaki stand on the left bank of the Katsura river, we listened to a great jazz quartet from Nagoya perform different versions of anything from the Doors to Japanese folk songs. Then a church choir came on, and it got kind of wierd. We didn't feel like getting preached to, so we left in search of a famous bamboo forest off the river. As it became darker, we paid one last visit to the church choir, then left for the local station. The sun hid behind the green hills, and with the sound of the river water in our ears, we climbed back on the tram bound for the sweet streams of eastern Kyoto.

Yoshida Shrine

Yoshida Shrine, in the upper northeastern section of Sakyo-ku, hugs the mountain directly behind Kyoto University. In 859, the tutelary god of the Fujiwara clan moved from Nara to Kyoto. Fujiwara Yamakage built a new shrine at Yoshida Mountain for the clan deity. The park-like grounds of the shrine reach up the beautiful, forested mountain, providing a relaxing way to escape the metropolitan city. Luckily, its only a 5 minute bike-ride from the house.


From the higher portion of the area, one can see the Daimonji on the Nyoigatake peak (it can be seen in the upper part of the right picture). In August, when the whole character is light in fire, the view must be unreal. Unfortunately, I won't be here for the next lighting. Further on, a small teahouse hides among the bamboo, offering passersby a chance to sit and bond over a hot cup of tea.

Tuesday

My ride to the center, or Kyodai Kaikan, takes about 15 minutes. I pass through narrow streets where potted plants line the road. Tall, thin houses crowd along the path, each with their small gates, which first usually lead into an open but covered garden entrance. Campaign posters of local politicians are splattered along the roads, and occasionally, scents of incense catch the nose. During the day when its noisy, I hear roaring trucks and congested traffic. At night when its still, I hear the purr of cicadas and the squeaking of my bike.

Class started yesterday. I attended a class that will cover Noh and the related Kyogen, a course that will broadly relate Japanese history from 300 A.D. on, and today a class on Japanese literature from 1868. I'm finding it difficult to choose among them. I must take two. Since I haven't had the basic Japanese history that the second course (above) covers, I think it would be best to include that one. Then, I believe that my interest in the literature outweighs my interest in the theater, which leads me to the prospect of another choice. But luckily, I still have a few days to decide.

shibumi

The following, a description of shibumi, is an excerpt from the book "Shibumi" by Trevanian:

"When you have doubts, ideas, questions, you will find Otake-san a valuable person to discuss them with. He will listen with interest, but will not burden you with advice." The General smiled. "Although I think you may find one of my friend's habits of speech a little disconcerting at times. He speaks of everything in terms of Go. All of life, for him, is a simplified paradigm of Go".

"He sounds as though I shall like him, sir."

"I am sure you will. He is a man who has all my respect. He possesses a quality of . . . how to express it? . . . of shibumi."

"Shibumi, sir?" The student knew the word, but only as it applied to gardens or architecture, where it connoted an understated beauty. "How are you using the term, sir?"

"Oh, vaguely. And incorrectly, I suspect. A blundering attempt to describe an ineffable quality. As you know, shibumi has to do with great refinement underlying commonplace appearances. It is a statement so correct that it does not have to be bold, so poignant it does not have to be pretty, so true it does not have to be real. Shibumi is understanding, rather than knowledge. Eloquent silence. In demeanor, it is modesty without pudency. In art, where the spirit of shibumi takes the form of sabi, it is elegant simplicity, articulate brevity. In philosophy, where shibumi emerges as wabi, it is spiritual tranquility that is not passive; it is being without the angst of becoming. And in the personality of a man, it is . . . how does one say it? Authority without domination? Something like that."

"How does one achieve this shibumi, sir?"

"One does not achieve it, one . . . discovers it. And only a few men of infinite refinement ever do that. Men like my friend Otake-san."

"Meaning that one must learn a great deal to arrive at shibumi?"

"Meaning, rather, that one must pass through knowledge and arrive at simplicity."

some prefer nettles

so after accidentally erasing my last two blogs, i`ve decided to not try and recreate them, but rather just keep posting. today was spent getting to know the area immediately surrounding my hostfamily`s house, the upper northeastern portion of sakyo-ku. the surrounding barriers that are thickly forested hills are roughly a 5 minute walk out the door. i was reluctant to press deep into the forest as a storm was eager to break above. the air is thick with moisture and the clouds have hovered menacingly for the past few days. the lush trees remind me of the ones at home. the iced and lightly creamed coffee brewed in the area is refreshing and delicious and the gyoza outstanding.
the days pass at a stunningly slow rate, which is a wonderful and welcome surprise. i have almost finished trevanian`s shibumi.