Monday, October 23, 2006
Sunday, October 15, 2006
A Weekend Away
I spent last weekend with the wonderful Yoshio family in Okayama prefecture. Their home, situated in a cleft between three hills, is an escapist's dream. Behind the main building lies the grandfather's grape vines, which I devoured over the the course of four days. 
Beautiful grapes the size and color of bleu de lyons ping pong balls that sparkle like diamonds. Or cobalt-colored slightly tarnished marble balls, the ones that you roll around your palm while complementing yourself on your own dexterity. And next to the grapes are the mother's edamame field and cabbage patch. I didn't know that the bean plants grow so thick and green. But sure enough, when I mentioned that edamame are very popular in America, she had me tearing up the plants and ripping the little pods from their stalks. Although I harbored a little guilt from ruining her beautiful garden, they still tasted delicious. 
The first night, after being swiftly guided into the house and throwing hasty self-introductions to the elder members of the household, I was seated at the center of the dinner table. Thereupon, they attempted to drown me in sake. Although I was warned of this beforehand, I underestimated the ferocity. At one point, when I put my hand over my glass (as I had been recommended to do when not wanting to continue) the father just poured the sake through my hand. I hope you don't get the impression that they were forcing me to drink. Not at all. I'm told its the common (and surefire) way to break the ice in rural Japan. As a family, they couldn't have been more accomodating, understanding, or patient.
The next day, I followed the mother to the local elementary school to participate in Waku Waku Kagaku Rando, the "Exciting Science Land" in the gym. I had been conscripted as a staff member and delegated to the paper airplane and boomarang booth. At around 1:30, 50 or so elementary kids came bounding into the gym with eyes ablaze. With my inadequate supplies, I was quickly overrun by the continuing onslaught of the little balls of energy. My only choice was to appoint paper airplane deputies, and the system soon became stratified into separate classes. Now I'm getting carried away with the explanation. Anyways, it was great fun.
That night, a moon-viewing barbeque was staged at a family friend's house. Being the 16th of the 9th lunar month , the moon was at its height. We had chicken, snails, squid, sake, octopus, crab brains, grapes, shochu, rice, and pizza. Quite the feast.
Beautiful grapes the size and color of bleu de lyons ping pong balls that sparkle like diamonds. Or cobalt-colored slightly tarnished marble balls, the ones that you roll around your palm while complementing yourself on your own dexterity. And next to the grapes are the mother's edamame field and cabbage patch. I didn't know that the bean plants grow so thick and green. But sure enough, when I mentioned that edamame are very popular in America, she had me tearing up the plants and ripping the little pods from their stalks. Although I harbored a little guilt from ruining her beautiful garden, they still tasted delicious. 
The first night, after being swiftly guided into the house and throwing hasty self-introductions to the elder members of the household, I was seated at the center of the dinner table. Thereupon, they attempted to drown me in sake. Although I was warned of this beforehand, I underestimated the ferocity. At one point, when I put my hand over my glass (as I had been recommended to do when not wanting to continue) the father just poured the sake through my hand. I hope you don't get the impression that they were forcing me to drink. Not at all. I'm told its the common (and surefire) way to break the ice in rural Japan. As a family, they couldn't have been more accomodating, understanding, or patient. 
The next day, I followed the mother to the local elementary school to participate in Waku Waku Kagaku Rando, the "Exciting Science Land" in the gym. I had been conscripted as a staff member and delegated to the paper airplane and boomarang booth. At around 1:30, 50 or so elementary kids came bounding into the gym with eyes ablaze. With my inadequate supplies, I was quickly overrun by the continuing onslaught of the little balls of energy. My only choice was to appoint paper airplane deputies, and the system soon became stratified into separate classes. Now I'm getting carried away with the explanation. Anyways, it was great fun.
That night, a moon-viewing barbeque was staged at a family friend's house. Being the 16th of the 9th lunar month , the moon was at its height. We had chicken, snails, squid, sake, octopus, crab brains, grapes, shochu, rice, and pizza. Quite the feast.
Monday, October 02, 2006
Kawabata's Snow Country
I spent yesterday trying to get to as many festivals and markets as possible. My first stop was the antique market at To-ji, which was still beautiful despite the heavy rain (left). Rusty swords and coins, old robes and wooden cabinets, and the like were strewn under hastily built tents. Local Japanese and visitors from abroad jumped the puddles in unison like prancing deer.
Next, I rode the Kintetsu line to Momoyama, where I visited the Gokono-Miya Shinko-Sai at Gokono-Miya Shrine. Different food stands lined the path to the main hall where a shinto procession was just ending.
I explored a little around the grounds. As I was exiting, an odango shop (one of my favorite sweets), just outside the entrance, surprised me. And I naturally had to taste one. Which became two. Who can resist when they are made right in front of you over a delicate fire?But my favorite visit that day was to Kitano Temmangu. The rain was incredible. Plum droplets sounded on the leaves, and the white shinto prayers danced when the wind sang. What a wonderful place.
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